We're now in Afua near the mouth of the river after four days chugging down from Santarem. I was a bit surprised that we did it under power but there are apparently good nautical reasons. On the whole the river was pretty calm although we did have a spell of heavy weather yesterday with waves crashing over the deck in real Titanic style. I was doing the washing up at the time - not too easy when you can't stand still.

Mostly the sailing was relaxing to the point of nodding off. Plenty of time to observe the river traffic and spot occasional dwellings on the river bank while marvelling at the immensity of it all.

The night stops were when it got up close and dirty as we explored little streams and creeks in the rubber dingy. I saw lots of lovely vegetation and quite a few birds but with the exception of water buffalo in their waterlogged paddocks no animals. Disappointing on one level not to see anacondas slithering by or crocodiles sliding down the bank and into the water but it meant that I felt a fraction safer when I jumped off the back of the boat for a wash.

Afua is an absolute jewel. The town is built above the water or rather mudflats. The narrow streets are edged by shops and houses all supported on wooden piles often with little bridges to get to the front door. There is not a powered vehicle to be seen or heard. What is not transported on the river from one pier to another goes by bicycle van. The streets and quite grand town square are constantly occupied by streams of cyclists. There are cycle taxis, four-wheeled family cycles, lads speeding along with a girlfriend on the pillion holding a parasol and even a cycle butcher.

The peace that you might imagine a consequence of no cars is somewhat tempered by loud music from bars and by the good news of Jesus being yelled out through loudspeakers mounted on - you've guessed it - a bicycle.

We're here for four days then it's out to sea, this time with the sails up. Next port of call is in France. Cayenne is not too handy for Paris but it is in France since Guyane is a DOM.