This is probably my last chance to have internet access for a couple of weeks. We set sail tomorrow morning and although we are 1000 kilometres up-river we officially leave Brazil here. There is nowhere else between Santarem and the sea where exit formalities can be carried out. One chap is somewhat concerned. He arrived yesterday to join one of the boats and fears he may never be able to enter Brazil again because officially he won't have left, no office being open on Good Friday to do the business.

In fact I am not yet on the Amazon. Santarem stands on the Tapajos where it meets the Amazon. It's a bit more impressive that the confluence of the two Creuses. The town itself strikes one at first as a typical third world dorp, all potholed streets and smelly gutters. But it's a bustling lively place. The waterfront is jammed with boats carrying cargo and people hither and thither. Passenger traffic seems to be mostly at night and as you walk along you see people settling into their hammocks on board these high two or three decked vessels ready for a trip to some even more remote settlement.

We saw the fish market yesterday morning where you can buy varieties of fish ranging from dinky little Piranhas about six inches long to vast Grouper like creatures five or six feet in length. The mystery is where do they come from because you see only the occasional fisherman on the river in a tiny pirogue or a dozen lads casting their rods along the promenade.

The yacht club where we are moored is a vast complex that has seen better days and those were long ago. But it's remarkable how they cleaned it up and filled the huge pool with sparkling water for the arrival of the Rallye des iles du soleil. Also it has to be said for the better off denizens of Santarem who don't muck about in boats much but like to have fun. I think that's the Brazilian keynote - having fun.

We had a certain amount of restrained fun in town last night pottering about the waterfront in that caressing warm darkness that is a delight of the tropics. There were lots of people about, walking, chattering, eating ice creams and sucking coconut milk through straws - delicious. There were kids playing basketball, kayak races on the river, mendicants with goods for sale - all in all a very jolly atmosphere. I'd say it was mediterranean life in spades.

We eventually settled on a restaurant terrace to enjoy the local hooch, the well known caiparinha, eat some food and relax. The food is excellent but served in mammoth portions. Three of us had in fact lunched off the doggie bag from the previous night's dinner and still had to throw some away. So I chose a steak sandwich and helped out with the finishing off of a huge pizza that someone else couln't manage. For most of the time we had musical entertainment from a keyboard and guitar duo who played and sang excellent latin jazz, bossa nova and so forth. Lots of what I took to be their own music but they didn't neglect to throw in the occasional standard. I expect that throughout the country and indeed the world their Girl from Ipanema was one of thousands played last night.

There's a great variety of people to watch and wonder about and one peculiarity I've noticed is that in the same street you find near slums and beautiful villas. Is this a sign of social cohesion or just of rich and poor rubbing along till the next revolution or military takeover?